Matar - Dhaban - Nadiad - 24 km / 15 miles
Tahir is very tired this morning and Erico has a headache. He made a vow to only drink water during the Walk and his body is going through caffeine withdrawal. I have a blister on my left heel but nothing painful. Tahir drives us back to Matar to begin walking where we left off and since we are on the shoulder of a busy highway we do little more than put one foot in front of the other until we arrive in Dhaban at noon, FOOD on our mind. As we approach the village gateway a friendly pool of motor rickshaw drivers greets us. Learning we are from Canada and Brazil, one responds in Portuguese, “A smile comes from the lips but love comes from the heart!” He offers to drive us across the highway to the restaurant where we settle into a booth and I order a plate of mixed vegetables, buttered roti, raw onion slices with salt and a fresh lime soda. The other patrons are likely highway commuters from larger centres. In subtle ways I read the infiltration of the West in their children’s clothing and behaviour. We linger, try to nod off, but are asked to move outside if done with our meal. It’s far too hot to walk so we locate some chairs in the shade where we can at least sit. It’s a practice in patience. And there’s a public toilet.
Several hours later we resume walking, walking, walking. The road into downtown Nadiad is lined with romantic abandoned estates and I make a mental note to return here one day, to move into one property in particular and live out my life the reclusive painter. We come to a busy outdoor farmer and flea market, bowls and platters of fresh fruit and vegetables in vibrant colours spread at our feet looking very tempting but too risky for our diet. The vendors are alert and strong and healthy and when I live here I will buy their produce and take it home to my abandoned estate to cook before a long night of painting. But today’s sun is down. We watch the traffic circle the roundabout where Gandhi strides atop the median then call Tahir. Tonight he has found us a comfortable hotel but there is no dinner.
One cup of rice
Three cups salted water
Dinner for two